Druze discipline.
The couple accompanying me having announced to some acquaintances the President of the Lebanese Women's League and Mme Naggiar, two guides open the way for us, courteously setting aside the obstacles. The footpath is frightfully slippery and steep. From its summit one glimpses the cluster of the houses of Moukhtara, at whose center the "dwelling" of Nazira, its high double flight of stairs completely covered with women. The road has become relatively passable; only the men move about, the weaker sex perched as high as possible. It seems that the feminine part of Moukhtara has been given over today to
devotion to the dead woman, whose magic wand still works on her behalf. A flowering of veils like the almond trees of two weeks ago; their white petals cover the heart of the Druze capital.
In the hushed silence, the loudspeaker transmits speeches and the injunction to restrain all lamentation.
Our guides part the wave of men, heads bare or turbaned, with long beards black or venerable. No jostling, no shots fired, but the cry "Make way for the Lebanese Women's Delegation," which, like an "open sesame" that had worked until now, has become vain. We must follow
our guides through a secret vaulted passage.
From entrance to entrance and from galleries to salons, we reach the immense hall where, at the center of a thousand women, enthroned upon a final elevation, stands an open catafalque. A queen vanquished only by death: a transparent silk muslin covers three-quarters of the once so intelligent and affable face of the dead woman. One can make out upon her only white satin, on which rests a cross of the Legion of Honor.
I looked, without finding it, for the gold medal of the Lebanese Order of Merit.
My young companion, lifted up so as to be heard, pronounces
in my name a few words that convey our feelings: the homage of the Lebanese women to her whose intelligence, beneficent activity, and administrative capacities have for thirty-five years raised our sex higher. Around us silent tears stream down. We too are both moved to tears.
Photograph by Dalal