reversed: in the reign of Queen 'Victoria' the women of the palace and the ladies of society strove their utmost to appear natural. In that age

the first beauty salon opened in London, in south 'Molton' Street. A lady would halt her closed carriage a hundred yards from the salon and let down a thick veil over her face, so that whoever saw her would suppose she was going to the dressmaker's. The color of powders in those days was pink and white, and there was no such abundance of kinds as there is today, when a woman can choose the colors and varieties that suit her complexion.

Finely wrought vanity cases were among the baggage a bride carried, followed by her sewing and embroidery chest. Of these there is one belonging to 'Lillie Langtry,' containing one hundred and seventy-seven pieces, among them flasks of glass and silver, buttons, a thimble, scissors, and wires for curling the hair.

Just before the first Great War the actress 'Theda Bara' created the first style of eye make-up; and so we see that despite all the refinement and improvement that have been added to beautification, it existed before — which bears out the theory that 'there is nothing new under the sun.' The level of fashion then declined: the dress reached the knees, and the waist dropped until it met the hem, and this brought a reaction in beautification. Rouge was used thickly, and artifice reached its height in the over-fine penciling of the eyebrows and the drawing of the lips in the shape of a 'Cupid's' bow, which gave the face a strange look; and the play-acting went still further in the purple period. Men of religion and husbands rose up to protest against this painting, because woman looked as though she suffered from a disease of the heart. Nail polish appeared as well: it was quite natural for the lips to be painted purple and the nails orange or dark red. This seems strange and freakish in our age, yet we cannot deny that it was the foundation of the harmonious nail-beautification renaissance of the present day.

The beautification of the face is an important matter, and on you, madam, depends making it appear splendid and attractive by choosing the suitable foundation; and you must find out to which type your skin belongs. Remember to leave no lines marking a boundary between the red and the white; let your face appear as natural as possible. The most important feature of the face is the eyes, so try your best to remove the wrinkles around them. Few women have been granted by nature beautiful eyes and long, upturned lashes; but every one of us can use kohl or mascara. Take care to keep your lipstick freshly renewed, and to wear the dark colors that harmonize with the nature of this season and heighten your magic and your charm!