crowns... naturally, this was not by way of kindness to animals!

In all Europe there are Versailles upon Versailles, in which selfishness long ran riot... and in the museums of Moscow, as in most museums, are the legends of gold and rubies and emeralds.

As for the picture galleries — the most important of them the Tretyakov Gallery — they hold masterpieces old and new. It is worth mentioning that painting with them is still classical and conservative: no "abstractionism," no "surrealism," no cubism.

I spent a whole afternoon visiting Tchaikovsky's house at Klin, in the outskirts of Moscow — an artist's house shaded by calm natural beauty, where the sound of music never ceases, repeating the melodies of Tchaikovsky, one of its eminent masters. There I sat talking with his sister's son, the old gentleman. His uncle was difficult of temper... a lover of quiet, precise in the ordering of his hours and in the choosing of... his clothes! As for his sweet wife — she had been a fellow student of his at the Conservatory — his life with her lasted no more than a month and a half..!

And at "Yasnaya Polyana," Tolstoy's marvelous kingdom, I spent one of the days of a lifetime in the company of our great man of letters, Mr. Mikhail Naimy, following the traces of a genius who has gone, while his books remain, with translators falling over them into every language... And talk of "Yasnaya Polyana" cannot be cut short..!

The palace of Prince Yusupov, the czar's cousin, at Arkhangelskoye reminded me of the palaces of the kings of France. And this Yusupov is the killer of the mighty Rasputin, with whom death long kept truce, so that the simple-minded thought him one of its conquerors.

Most of the walls of Yusupov's palace are adorned with magnificent canvases by great artists such as Giovi, Fragonard, Hubert

Robert, Lebrun, Torelli, and others... And Yusupov set up in his palace a porcelain factory which he supervised himself, distributing its products among friends and visitors!

As for talk of the ballet, it will always fall short, however long it runs or however fair it is... And after the "Bolshoi Theater," or the Grand Theater, hive of the Russian ballet, where the lords and ladies of the dance soar... At the Bolshoi Theater, Ulanova, Plisetskaya, Bshenskaya, and

Struchkova shine in roles from East and West... The Bolshoi Theater company holds fast to the classical, conservative character of its dance, unlike certain other companies. Nor does the folk dancing fall short of the ballet in splendor and perfection — most of the time, that is — and every republic has its traditional dances.

I roamed Moscow University for hours, listening to the "guide" as she told me of its departments and faculties, which embrace more than twenty-two thousand

Continued on page 49

The famous American ACE comb

The only comb made of pure hard rubber

ACE

HARD RUBBER

SMOOTHER — STRONGER — LAST MUCH LONGER

* Very durable and strong

* Does not harm the scalp

* Serves you... 10 times longer than any other comb

* Sold at A.B.C. stores, novelty shops, and pharmacies

Agents and importers: Halim Hanna & Co. — Beirut

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